Manufacture of prewelt shoes



J. S. KAMBORIAN MANUFACTURE OF EREWELT SHOES June 24, 1941.

3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Original Filed May 5, 1938 N 3 a riwl i on u 7 n 00 7 7 z t flwm June 24, 1941.

,J. S. KAMBORIAN MANUFACTURE OF PREWELT SHOES Original Filed May 5, 1938 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 VIIIIIIIVIIIII'IIlI/IJ \\\\\\\\\w VI)! IIIIIIIIIA TfcUe77zZ07': Jdcob *5. Mr-zborz'an b w M m Wag.

June 1941- J. s. KAMBORIAN MANUFACTURE OF PREWELT SHOES Original Filed May 5, 1938 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 i M w Patented June 24, 1941 MANUFACTURE OF PREWELT SHGES Jacob S. Kamborian, West Newton, Mass, as signor to General Research, 1110., Boston, Mass, a corporation of Massachusetts Original application May 5, 1938, Serial No. 206,165. Divided and this application October 24, 1939, Serial No. 300,930

11 Claims.

This invention pertains to the manufacture of footwear, and relates more especially to an improved method of making prewelt shoes, the present application being a division of the application, Serial No. 206,165, filed May 5, 1938, by Jacob S. Kamborian for Manufacture of prewelt shoes.

In making shoes of the prewelt type, the upper material is cut with less than the usual lasting allowance, and after the upper has been fitted, a sole-attaching Welt strip is secured to the lower edge of the upper, usually by stitching. According to customary practice the upper is then assembled with an insole upon a last and the united edges of the upper and welt are lasted in and cemented or otherwise secured to the margin of the insole. After lasting, the outer sole is laid and secured to the welt in any appropriate way, for instance by stitching or adhesive. Ordinarily the insole has associated with it a central filler piece which more or less fills the space at the center of the insole defined by the inturned edges of the upper and welt.

The lasting of the upper with its attached welt is a difiicult and unduly expensive operation, particularly when it is remembered that the field of usefulness of the prewelt process has heretofore at least been largely confined to childrens shoes or the like, which must be made to sell at a very low price.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide an improved method of making pre- Welt shoes whereby the parts are united and shaped to the last much more readily and with less expense than has previously been possible.

A further object is 'to provide an improved process whereby the usual insole is replaced by a sock lining introduced after the outer sole has been attached, the resultant shoe lacking the usual structural insole but having a smooth and level foot-supporting surface substantially free from bunches, crevices or other irregularities. To this end the invention contemplates the use of an outer sole having a central elevation or plateau corresponding in function to the usual filler piece and having a rigid abutment shoulder for engagement by the united edges of the welt and upper, thereby definitely to fix the location of said edges.

According to usual methods, the welted upper is first secured to the insole mounted on the last, and the outer sole is afterward secured to the welt. In the practice of the present novel process, the united edges of the welt and upper are positioned upon the margin of the outer sole and united directly thereto, and the last is afterward inserted, the welt being flattened and pressed against the upper surface of the outer sole while the united edges of the upper and welt are driven very firmly against the abutment shoulder formed by the central projecting portion of the outer sole. Preferably this shoulder is so designed as to overhang, and the edges of the welt and upper are bevelled and tucked forcibly beneath this overhanging shoulder so as to form a very perfect fit and a smooth inner surface for the shoe.

Preferably the welt is united to the outer sole concomitantly with the above-described operation in which it is associated with the outer sole and driven snugly against the abutment shoulder -such union of the welt and outer sole being by means of adhesive or by stitches or by both. If adhesive be employed, it is contemplated that the adhesive may be applied to the surface of the welt before the upper is associated with the outer sole, or as a step in a continuous operation involving the application of the adhesive, the assembly of the welt and outer sole and the permanent union of said parts,

In order that the united edge of the welt and upper may be snugly fitted to the abutment shoulder of the outer sole, it is essential that said edges of the welted upper be as even as practical and as close aspossible to the seam which unites them. According to the present method, the surplus material of the welt and upper, which projects beyond the seam, is trimmed away, preferably at a bevel as above described, thereby to permit the edge of the upper and welt to be tucked snugly and tightly into the crevice produced by the undercut abutment shoulder of the outer sole.

In order to prevent premature adhesion of the welt to the outer sole before the welt has been properly positioned against the abutment shoulder, it is preferable to interpose guard means between the approaching surfaces of the welt and outer sole, which allows said surfaces to contact only as they are finally forced into contact in the proper relation.

Other and further objects and advantages of the invention will be pointed out hereinafter in the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawings, where- 1n:

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary side elevation, with certain parts indicated in dotted lines, illustrating one form of mechanism useful in the practice of the present invention, but with the understanding that such mechanism is merely by way of illustration and that the present method is capable of performance by other means than that herein specifically disclosed;

Fig. 1 is a side elevation, to larger scale, illustrating a welt tucking implement;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary horizontal section substantially on the line 22 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary front elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary perspective view, partly in horizontal section, showing a guard device forming an element of said mechanism;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary vertical section, to large scale, showing the outer sole of the shoe, the upper, and welt, and indicating the operation of the welt turning plow;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary section substantially on the line 66 of Fig. 5, further illustrating the action of the welt turning plow;

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary vertical section showing the outer sole, the upper, and Welt, and indicating the operation of the welt tucking implement;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary section showing the margin of the upper with the welt secured thereto;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary diagrammatic elevation, with certain parts in section, illustrating a trimming device for trimming the united edges of the Welt and upper;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 8, but showing the united edges of the upper and Welt as having been trimmed to a bevel and illustrating the application of adhesive to the trimmed edges and to the under surface of the welt;

Fig. 11 is a diagrammatic perspective view showing the shoe upper with the attached welt after the united edges of the welt and upper have been trimmed;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of an outer sole constructed in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary vertical section, to larger scale, substantially on the line l3-i3 of Fig. 12, showing a preferred embodiment;

Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 13, but illustrating a slightly modified construction;

Fig. 15 is a fragmentary diagrammatic elevation showing a modified and preferred form of work rest;

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 15;

Fig. 1'7 is a side elevation showing a shoe having the heel wedge disposed beneath the rear part of the outer sole;

Fig. 18 is a diagrammatic plan view of a shoe indicating the relative locations of several operative instrumentalities which may be used in uniting the welt and outer sole; and

Fig. 19 is a vertical section showing the shoe after the outer sole and upper have been united and with a last disposed within the upper.

Referring to the drawings, and in particular to Figs. 1 to 4, wherein one described embodiment of apparatus useful in the practice of the invention is illustrated, the machine comprises a frame, here shown as including a horizontal front bar i and a corresponding rear bar 2, said bars being supported by front legs 3 and rear legs 5, the legs preferably diverging downwardly so as to provide a firm base for the machine. The front and rear bars I and 2 are united by parallel side bars 5 and 6, which are preferably angle bars having vertical parallel flanges l and 8 respectively. To these flanges are secured vertical plates 9 and 10 respectively, between which are arranged spacer members, such as the members H and I2, the various frame parts being united by bolts, rivets, welding, or in any other suitable manner. The lower spacing member [2 projects forwardly beyond the member I (Figs. 1, 2 and 3), and its upper surface !3 constitutes a work rest or support.

With this work rest there cooperates a welt tucking device M (Fig. l having a nose portion i5 terminating in an acute edge 16, which is designed to enter the crevice between the outer surfaces of the united upper and welt. This nose portion l5 also has a substantially horizontal fiat under surface I? designed to press the welt firmly against the marginal portion of the outer sole, as hereinafter more fully described.

The tucking member Id has a substantially horizontal shank portion provided with a vertical opening l8 which receives the lower end of a stem member iii (Figs. 1 and 2). This stem member preferably is screw threaded and the tucking member it may be adjusted vertically along this stem member, and when properly adjusted may be held fixedly to the stem member by means of suitable clamping nuts or the like. The upper part of the stem I 9 is fitted to slide in a vertical socket in a carrier member 20. In order to prevent the stem l9 from turning in its socket, it preferably is furnished with an elongate slot 2! (Fig. 1) which receives the inner end of a set screw 22 which allows the stem to move vertically but prevents it from turning. Above the stem is arranged a cushioning spring 23 which abuts a tension adjusting screw 24. The tucking device is thus yieldable, to some extent, vertically, as permitted by the spring 23, but the resistance to yield, and thus the degree of pressure which it exerts against the welt, may be varied by turning the adjusting screw 22.

The carrier is provided with an upwardly and rearwardly directed extension 20 which is disposed between a pair of guide plates 25 and 26 secured to the inner surfaces of the plates 9 and i9, respectively, by means of screws 2? and 28 (Fig. 3) or the like.

The opposed surfaces of the plates 25 and 26 are furnished with guide slots, the slots in the two plates being alike in shape and arrangement, each slot having portions 29 and 38 which are inclined at an acute angle to the horizontal, for example, an angle of 22.5 degrees, and also including inclined portions 3! whose inclination is steeper than that of the portions 29; for example, the portions 3! may be inclined at an angle of 45 degrees or more to the horizontal.

These slots receive guide studs 32 projecting from opposite sides of the extension Ed of the carrier, the carrier thus being movable in a generally inclined path but at two different degrees of inclination according to the part of the path in which it is moving.

The rear end portion of the extension 26 is bifurcated to provide spaced ears 2% which receive between them a tongue 33 (Figs. 1 and 2) at the forward end of a connecting rod 3%. The rear end of this connecting rod 34 is secured to an eccentric strap 35 which cooperates with an eccentric 35 fixed to a drive shaft 37 which is journaled in openings in the plates 5 and L5. This shaft projects outwardly beyond one of these plates and is furnished with suitable drive means (not shown, for example a belt driven pulley) whereby it may be rotated rapidly, thus (by means of the connecting rod 3 5) reciprocating the carriage along the path provided by the guide slots 29, and 3|.

For the purpose of initiating the downward and outward turning and flattening of the Welt, a plow member 39 having an attaching shank portion 38 (Fig. 2) is mounted on the machine frame so as to engage the welt just before the latter is engaged by the tucking member l4. This plow preferably comprises a piece of sheet metal having its operating end 39 inclined both downwardly and in the direction of movement of the welt as it is advanced toward the tucking member l5. As shown in Fig. 5, the downwardly directed operative portion 39 of the plow member engages between the opposed outer surfaces of the united upper and welt and, by engagement of its lower edge and outer surface with the welt, tends to turn the latter downwardly into a hori- Zontal position.

Since the outer surface of the welt is ordinarily adhesive and since it is essential that the united edges of the welt and upper be moved horizontally to the proper final position (as hereafter more fully described), before the adhesive surface of the welt comes into uniting contact with the outer sole--a guard member Ml (Figs. 2 and 4.) is provided in advance of the tucking member l5 and preferably at the region of action of the plow member 39. This guard member 4!] is a thin plate which is guided to slide on the upper surface of the member l2 and which has a shank portion 4! provided with a laterally projecting pin 42 which passes outwardly through a horizontal slot $3 in the frame and which is received in an elongate slot in a lever arm M pivoted at 45 to the frame. The upper end 46 of this lever 44 constitutes a handle by means of which the guard 40 may at times be retracted from operative position.

In a modified and preferred construction illustrated in Figs. 15 and 16, the forward extension I2 of the lower spacer member I?! is furnished with an inclined upper surface 4'! preferably dovetailed or undercut, as shown at 48, for the reception and guidance of a sliding block 49 whose upper horizontal surface Ili constitutes the work rest. This block is provided at its rear end with an upstanding ear 50 to which is attached the connecting rod 5| pivotally secured to the vertical arm 5?; of a bell-crank lever pivoted to the frame and having a horizontal arm to which is secured a link 54 by means of which it is connected to a pedal lever 53. A spring 55 tends to lift the pedal lever and thus to hold the block 49 in its rearmost position, but by depressing the pedal the block may be moved downwardly along the inclined guideway so that its upper surface Ili moves farther away from the tucking device [4.

The work rest is provided with a guide roll R preferably having a knurled edge which is designed to engage the edge of the outer sole and thus to guide the outer sole as the latter is presented to the field of action of the tucking device [4. In the arrangement shown in Figs. 1 to i, the guide roll is mounted to turn freely on. a stud S which is fixed in the extension l2 of the lower spacer member. In the arrangement shown in Figs. 15 and 16, wherein the work rest is vertically adjustable, the guide roll R is mounted on a stud 5% which fits within a vertical guide opening in the extension 12 and which is vertically movable in such opening-being urged downwardly by means of a spring 51 which engages an adjustable nut at the lower end of the stem 56. The block I3 is furnished with an elongate slot 58 for the reception of the upper end of the stem. Thus, regardless of the position of the block 49, the guide roll R. remains in position to engage the edge of the outer sole mounted on the work rest l3 For trimming the united edges of the upper and welt, apparatus such as diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 9 may be employed. This apparatus preferably comprises a cylindrical cutter C of a type similar to that employed in leather skiving machines. For presenting the work to this cutter, guide rolls 5.) and 6b are employed, such rolls being driven by means of a shaft 6! and suitable bevelled gearing. The roll 59 preferably is knurled and engages the outer or under surface of the welt W, while the roll 69 is a smooth-surfaced, thin, bevelled-edge roll designed to engage between the opposed outer surfaces of the upper U and the welt W so as to support the upper and welt in the vicinity of the field of action of the edge of the cutter C. If desired, the trimming apparatus may be arranged, for example, by proper shaping of rolls 59 and 613, to flatten the welt while trimming it.

An outer sole desirable for use in accordance with the present procedure is illustrated at S in Figs. 12 and 13. This outer sole may be of leather or any of the usual materials employed for this purpose, but difiers from ordinary outer soles in that it has a central elevation or plateau P which terminates in an abrupt shoulder A spaced from the edge of the upper surface of the outer sole so as to define a distinct marginal portion S Preferably the shoulder A is undercut or dovetailed, as illustrated in Fig. 13, although it is contemplated that, under some conditions, this shoulder may be a vertical shoulder, as illustrated at A in Fig. 14. This plateau or elevation P performs somewhat the same function as the filler commonly employed for filling the cavity between the inner and outer soles of McKay or Goodyear welt shoes.

As shown in Fig. 13, the elevation or plateau P is a separate piece of material secured to the sole proper by means of adhesive or the like. If of separate material, this material may be some such substance, for example, as sheet cork, designed to provide a cushioning effect; or it may be of material having other properties, for example, rubber or artificial rubber, giving a waterproofing action; or it may be artificial leather, a cellulose product, or the like, designed to provide the desired thickness but at a lower cost than were solid leather employed for making both the sole proper and this plateau portion. On the other hand, as illustrated in Figs. 5 and 7, the elevation or plateau at the center of the outer sole may be integral with the material of the sole proper.

As illustrated in Fig. 8, the welt W is united to the marginal portion of the upper U by means of suitable fasteners F, such, for example, as stitches or staples, in the manner customary in making pre-welt shoes, it being understood that the upper is fitted with but little lasting allowance as compared with the practice in making shoes other than pro-welt shoes.

After the upper and welt have been united by the fasteners F, their inner edges, as indicated at E (Fig. 8), may be somewhat irregular, and in accordance with the present invention it is preferred to trim off these irregular edges so as to provide a smooth and uniform composite edge for engagement with the shoulder A of the outer sole. This trimming preferably is accomplished by apparatus such as shown in Fig. 9 or its equivalent, the several operative parts of which are so arranged as to trim off the surplus material E so as to form a bevelled or feather edge E (Fig. 10)

Preferably this bevelled edge, as well as the under surface of the welt W, is coated with adhesive before the upper and welt are united with the outer sole. As illustrated in Fig. 10, this adhesive may be applied in the form of a spray M by means of a suitable spray nozzle G. This spray nozzle is supplied with compressed air through a suitable supply pipe T and with fluid adhesive through a supply pipe T. Preferably the adhesive is of a nature such that it coagulates or gels substantially as soon as it comes into contact with the surface to which it is applied. Thus, for example, if latex be employed as the adhesive, it is proposed to pass the supply pipe T through a heater H which raises the fluid latex to a temperature just short of that at which it coagulates, so that when this heated latex escapes from the nozzle G, it coagulates immediately upon striking the surfaces of the shoe parts which are to be adhesively coated.

At this point it may be pointed out that while, as illustrated in Figs. 9 and 10, the surplus material of the upper and welt is trimmed oif to form a bevelled edge E designed for association with an undercut or bevelled shoulder A of the outer sole, the surplus material of the edge would be trimmed oif square if such edge were to be associated with a square shoulder A, as shown in Fig. 14. Moreover, While the adhesive is shown in Fig. 10 as applied by means of a spray nozzle, it is to be understood that it may be applied in any other desired way within the scope of the invention.

After the upper and welt have been united and the surplus material trimmed away, the upper has the general appearance indicated in Fig. 11 the welt tending to curl up against the outer surface of the upper. Assuming that the trimmed edge of the welted upper and the under surface of the welt have been coated with adhesive, the upper is now ready for assembly with an outer sole such as illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13. If desired, the marginal portion S of the outer sole and the shoulder A may first be coated with adhesive before assembly with the upper and r welt, although this may not be necessary.

Having provided the assembled upper and welt and the outer sole having the central plateau and abutment shoulder A, the worker takes the upper and outer sole and first brings them into proper registry at the heel and toe ends, and then, by hand, positions the trimmed edge E of the combined welt and upper into engagement with the shoulder A of the outer sole at some selected point or points, preferably at opposite sides of the shank, and causes the Welt to adhere to the margin S at these points. Then resting the under surface of the outer sole upon the work rest 53 at one of the points where adhesion of the parts has thus been initiated, the worker causes the plow 39 to enter the crevice between the opposed surfaces of the welt and upper. Then with the shaft 3'5 rotating and thus reciprocating or vibrating the welt tucking device E4, the operator causes the sole and upper to progress from the plow 39 toward the tucking device. As the lattcr reciprocates, it first moves downwardly and forwardly along an inclined path as defined by the inclination of the slots 29,

30 wherein the predominant component of movement is horizontal.

As the acute edge It of the tucking device enters the crevice between the upper and Welt, this predominantly horizontal motion of the tucking device crowds the edge E of the combined upper and welt beneath the shoulder A so as very firmly to engage the edge with the shoulder. This initial downward movement of the tucking device is followed by a movement along a more steeply inclined path, as defined by the portions 3! of the slot, which causes the lower surface I"! of the tucking device to force the welt down flat against the marginal portion S of the outer sole with a very substantial pressure. This combined forward and downward movement of the tucking device thus very firmly engages the adhesively coated surfaces of the trimmed edge of the upper and welt and of the welt itself against the shoulder A and against the margin S of the outer sole, respectively, so as securely to unite them. During this operation the edge of the outer sole engages the roll R against which the worker may press the sole with substantial pressure so as to keep the abutment shoulder A in proper relation to the tucking implement.

It is to be understood that the tucking implement vibrates rapidly and that as it vibrates, the worker moves the sole and upper progressively along the work rest so that successive portions of the welt are forced into contact with the outer sole. During this same movement the plow 39 helps to initiate the turning and flattening of the welt as the latter approaches the field of action of the tucking device.

If desired, this operation may be continued without interruption until the welt throughout the entire periphery of the upper has been fiattened and secured to the outer sole. However, it may be preferred thus to attach the welt to the outer sole throughout a certain sector of the shoe and then to remove the shoe from the machine and begin again at another point, thus to avoid undue crowding of the welt longitudinally throughout too great an extent of its length, such as might possibly result in puckering the welt before the entire welt had been secured to the outer sole.

Instead of applying the adhesive as a preliminary step to the entire Welt before starting to unite the welt to the outer sole, it may, as illustrated in Fig. 13, be preferred to provide a spray nozzle G mounted upon the same frame as the tucking device and designed to apply adhesive spray to the surface of the welt just before the latter is engaged by the plow 39. Likewise, if the adhesive is not to be relied upon as the only means for permanently securing the welt to the outer sole, it is contemplated that the frame which supports the tucking implement may also support sewing mechanism of conventional type, including the needle N (Fig. 18), by means of which stitches K may be formed immediately after the welt has been laid down flat against the margin of the outer sole. Obviously, instead of stitches, staples or other fasteners might be inserted at this point, and it is further noted that with such an arrangement, in which permanent fasteners such as stitches or staples are inserted immediately after the action of the tucking device, it may be possible to dispense with the adhesive, since such fasteners would be inserted while the welt was still held in proper relation to the outer sole by the action of the tucking device.

When the welt is adhesive, it is undesirable that its under surface come into contact with the margin S of the outer sole until the trimmed edge E has been very firmly engaged with the abutment shoulder A, and, to avoid such premature engagement, the guard plate 40 is provided, as above described. However, when the welt has been secured substantially all of the way around the outer sole, it is necessary at the final portion to remove the guard plate so that the last portion of the welt may be brought into contact with the outer sole, and for this reason the guard plate is made retractible, as above described; and when this final stage in the operation is reached, the operator retracts the guard plate by means of the lever handle 46, so that the final portion of the welt may be brought down into contact with the margin of the sole.

In making certain types of shoe, as illustrated in Fig. 17, a wedge piece B is inserted between the outer sole and the bottom of the shoe at the heel and this, in effect, increases the thickness of the sole at this point. To accommodate such extra thickness, the work rest may be made vertically adjustable, as indicated in Figs. 15 and 16, as above described, and when the operator reaches this part of the shoe, he depresses the pedal 53, thus lowering the work rest surface to an extent sufiicient to enable the thickened portion of the sole to pass beneath the tucking device Mthe spring restoring the work rest to its normal position when the pedal is released.

While in the above description reference has been made to the outer sole, it is to be understood that certain features of the above apparatus and method might well be useful in securing the welt of a pre-welt shoe to an inner sole if it were desired to do so.

After the entire welt has been permanently secured to the outer sole, either by means of adhesive or by stitches or other fasteners, or both, the upper, being then in temper, is lasted by inserting a last L (Fig. 19) within the upper to which the outer sole has already been attached. The last is left in the upper until the material of the shoe has set thoroughly on the last, whereupon the last is withdrawn and the shoe is completed in accordance with usual methods.

It is to be noted that in accordance with the preferred practice of the present procedure no true inner sole is used, although after the last has been withdrawn from the shoe, a sock lining may be inserted, if desired. However, since the upper surface of the plateau portion P of the outer sole is smooth and level and the thickness or height of the plateau substantially equals the thickness of the edge E, and since the edge of the upper is brought into firm engagement with the shoulder A, the inner surface of the upper forms substantially an uninterrupted continuation of the upper surface of the plateau portion P of the outer sole. Thus the inner foot-engaging surface of the shoe is unusually smooth and free from crevices, projections, or lumps, so that not even a sock lining is always necessary, and the resultant shoe is much more comfortable to the wearer than shoes made in accordance with usual practice. Moreover, the usual lasting operation is rendered unnecessary, the cost of production is substantially decreased, and less skill is required in making the shoe in accordance with this method than is necessary when usual lasting and adjunctive processes are employed.

A. desirable apparatus has been described for use in the practice of the invention, but is to be regarded as merely illustrative of suitable means for the purpose, but the invention is not necessarily dependent upon the precise sequence of steps herein described, nor the use of such apparatus, and is inclusive of the substitution of equivalent method steps for these herein described.

I claim:

1. Method of making pre-welt shoes which comprises fitting an upper, securing a soleattaching welt to the lower margin of the upper, providing an outer sole having means defining an abutment shoulder spaced inwardly from its edge, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first subjecting the united edges of the upper and welt, at each such point, to a force whose major component is substantially parallel to the surface of the sole thereby to crowd said edges firmly against the abutment shoulder, and then subjecting the welt at each successive point to a force directed more nearly perpendicularly to the surface of the sole, thereby to adhere the welt firmly to the margin of the sole, and permanently uniting the welt to the outer sole.

2. Method of making pre-welt shoes which comprises fitting an upper, securing a soleatt'alching welt to the lower margin of the upper, providing an outer sole having a central elevation at its upper side whose edge defines an undercut abutment shoulder, beveling the united edges of the welt and upper, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first subjecting the united edges of the upper and welt at each such point to a force whose major component is substantially parallel to the surface of the sole thereby to crowd said beveled edges of the welt and upper beneath the overhang of said undercut shoulder, and then subjecting the welt at each successive point to a force directed more nearly perpendicularly to the surface of the sole, thereby to adhere the welt firmly to the margin of the sole, and permanently securing the welt tothe outer sole.

3. Method of making pre-welt shoes in which an upper having a sole-attaching welt united to its lower margin is employed, characterized in providing an outer sole having a central plateau whose edge is spaced from the edge of the outer sole and which forms an abutment shoulder, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first subjecting the united edges of the upper and welt, at each such point, to a force whose major component is substantially parallel to the surface of the sole thereby to crowd said edges firmly against the abutment shoulder, and then subjecting the welt at each successive point to a force directed more nearly perpendicularly to the surface of the sole, thereby to adhere the welt firmly to the margin of the sole, securing the welt permanently to the outer sole, and thereafter inserting a last in the shoe while the shoe parts are in temper.

4. Method of making pre-Welt shoes in which an upper having a sole-attaching welt united to its lower margin is employed, characterized in providing an outer sole having a central plateau of a height corresponding to the combined thickness of the upper and welt and having a substantially fiat upper surface and an undercut edge constituting an abutment shoulder spaced from the edge of the outer sole, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first subjecting the united edges of the upper and welt, at each such point, to a force whose major component is substantially parallel to the surface of the sole thereby to crowd. said edges firmly against the abutment shoulder, and then subjecting the welt at each successive point to a force directed more nearly perpendicularly to the surface of the sole, thereby to adhere the welt firmly to the margin of the sole, permanently securing the welt to the outer sole, and thereafter introducing a last into the shoe.

5. Method of making pre-welt shoes in which an upper having a sole-attaching Welt united to its lower margin is employed, characterized in providing an outer sole having a central plateau of a height substantially corresponding to the combined thickness of the upper and welt and having a substantially level upper surface and an edge constituting an abutment shoulder spaced from the edge of the outer sole, trimming the united edge portions of the welt and upper to form a clean, smooth edge, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first subjecting the united edges of the upper and welt, at each such point, to a force whose major component is substantially parallel to the surface of the sole thereby to crowd said edges firmly against the abutment shoulder, and then subjecting the welt at each successive point to a force directed more nearly perpendicularly to the surface of the sole, thereby to adhere the Welt firmly to the margin of the sole, and permanently uniting the outer sole and welt.

6. That method of making pre-welt shoes in which the upper has a sole-attaching welt united to its lower margin and in which the outer sole has an abutment shoulder defining the location of the inner edge of the welt in the finished shoe, characterized in trimming away surplus material at the inner edges of the united Welt and upper to form a smooth edge, coating such smooth edge with adhesive, causing adhesion of the Welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first turning the welt so as to lie substantially parallel with and to approach the margin of the sole and, as it approaches the sole,

guarding the adhesively coated surface of the welt against premature contact with the surface of the sole, and then at each such point exerting force having a substantial component which is perpendicular to the sole surface, there-by to ad- 1 here the welt firmly to the margin of the sole and permanently uniting the Welt and sole.

7. That method of making pre-welt shoes in which the upper has a sole-attaching welt united to its lower margin and in which the outer sole has an abutment shoulder defining the location of the inner edge of the welt in the finished shoe, characterized in that the abutment shoulder of the outer sole is undercut, and in trimming away surplus material at the inner edges of the united welt and upper to form a smooth beveled edge designed to enter beneath the overhanging abutment shoulder of the outer sole, coating such trimmed and beveled edge of the welt and upper and also the under surface of the welt with adhesive, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first subjecting the united edges of the upper and welt at each such point to a force whose major component makes an angle of less than 45 with the surface of the sole thereby to crowd said beveled and adhesively coated edges of the united welt and upper beneath the abutment shoulder of the outer sole, and then subjecting the welt at each successive point to a force making an angle of 45 or more with the surface of the sole, thereby to adhere the welt firmly to the margin of the sole.

8. Method of making pre-welt shoes in which an upper having a sole-attaching welt united to its lower margin is employed, characterized in providing an outer sole having a central plateau of a height corresponding to the combined thickness of the upper and welt and having a smooth, level upper surface and an undencut edge constituting an abutment shoulder spaced from the edge of the outer sole, causing the under surface of the welt to become adhesive, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first turning the welt so as to lie substantially parallel with and to approach the margin of the sole and, as it approaches the sole, guarding the adhesively coated surface of the welt against premature contact with the surface of the sole, and then at each such point exerting force having a substantial component which is perpendicular to the sole surface, thereby to adhere the welt firmly to the margin of the sole and permanently uniting the welt and sole.

9. Method of making pre-welt shoes in which an upper having a sole-attaching welt united to its lower margin is employed, characterized in providing an outer sole having a central plateau of a height substantially corresponding to the combined thickness of the upper and welt and having a smooth, level upper surface and an edge constituting an abutment shoulder spaced from the edge of the outer sole, causing the under surface of the Welt to become adhesive, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first turning the welt so as to lie substantially parallel with and to approach the margin of the sole and, as it approaches the sole, guarding the adhesively coated surface of the welt against premature contact with the surface of the sole, and then at each such point exerting force having a substantial component which is perpendicular to the sole surface, thereby to adhere the Welt firmly to the margin of the sole and permanently uniting the welt and sole.

10. Method of making pre-welt shoes in which an upper having a sole-attaching welt united to its lower margin is employed, characterized in providing an outer sole having a central plateau of a height substantially corresponding to the combined thickness of the upper and welt and having a substantially level upper surface and a dovetail undercut edge constituting an abutment shoulder spaced from the edge of the outer sole, trimming the united edge portions of the welt and upper on a bevel to form a clean,- smooth, feather edge, causing adhesion of the welt and sole to take place progressively from point to point along the margin of the sole by first subjecting the united edges of the upper and welt, at each such point, to a force whose major component is substantially parallel to the surface of the sole thereby to :croWd said edges firmly against the abutment shoulder, and then subjecting the welt at each successive point to upon successive portions of the under surface of the welt, and immediately pressing the sprayed portion of the welt substantially flat against the marginal portion of the sole member thereby progressively to unite suocessive portions of the welt to the sole member.

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN. 

